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#morsecode

22 posts22 participants1 post today
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The second third beta release of my #HamRadio #MorseCode single-paddle key is out. The spring weights have been adjusted based on some feedback. Each key has an identifier associated with the weight on the bottom to make it easy to tell them apart. There is now a separate mounting plate for a clipboard or forearm plate like Dan WY3O brought to the RARS meetup.

It's not actually necessary to use ring terminals, especially while experimenting. You might want them on a final version, but while testing, bare wires under the lock nuts and center screw are probably good enough. If I were carrying this POTA or SOTA, though, I'd want the ring terminals for durability.

I'm eager for feedback, and if I get time to print off a new batch tomorrow, I might bring a set to RARSfest Saturday.

Look at this gorgeous 3d-printed iambic #MorseCode key! Definitely looks like you'd only want to print it with a resin printer, but with the magnets installed, I expect it would work great with a jeweler's block base.

Open source, comes with a complete BOM from McMaster, has STEP and STL as well as the original SW files. Very nice work.

I'd use longer screws and thumb nuts to lock them (I mean, for my key I did use longer screws and thumb nuts) instead of thread locker, but that's a personal choice. 😀

github.com/Neil-Sawhney/N2-Iam

GitHubGitHub - Neil-Sawhney/N2-Iambic-Paddle: An Open Source Design for an Iambic Paddle for use as a CW Morse Code KeyAn Open Source Design for an Iambic Paddle for use as a CW Morse Code Key - Neil-Sawhney/N2-Iambic-Paddle
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If you have a local ham club with several people interested in this key, you can buy brass hardware, and with the links in the README can buy enough to make 5 keys for $50 (with a bunch left over because of different multiples, of course). I did this because I intend to make several of these keys for testing and display.

But it works fine with far cheaper stainless hardware; brass just looks nicer. As far as I can tell, most hardware stores even in the US have M3 metric hex socket screws in bins, so you don't have to buy 10-packs or 50-packs of hardware. This works perfectly fine. You just need a hex wrench and a small box-end wrench or needle nose pliers or forceps/hemostats or something to tighten the nuts when you adjust spacing.

My goal here is to help make it cheap and easy to have a really usable key.

And if you run into any problems, please please ask for help! The whole point of the beta release is to get feedback so I can improve both the models and the instructions before posting this more widely.

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This design is ready for you to test!

I printed out keys with six different variations on spring strength, four different sizes of covers, two different heights of swivel bases, and brought them all to my local club monthly show-and-tell. A few others club members have also printed them. I took some feedback, and have now updated the documentation and released STEP and STL files for multiple configurations.

The ones I printed were ABS. One club member printed in PLA, and another in PETG, so it looks like this design can work well across multiple types of filament. One club member screwed down what I had meant as a belt swivel mount to a board that you rest your wrist/forearm on and it's a very clever addition! Picture attached.

I would like lots of detailed feedback! If you are interested in a single-paddle morse key, it doesn't matter whether you want a very light or extremely stiff spring or anything in between, this design can meet your needs. It's not expensive. You may be able to use random hardware lying around the house, especially if you have spare parts for 3d printers, but I also have links in the documentation for various hardware you can use with it.

Lots of options and possibilities, and if you need help, please don't hesitate to speak up!